The Temple Mount

On my third trip to Israel, I finally got to visit the Temple Mount. As recently as 2014, there were multiple incidents of violence against Jews and tourists on the Temple Mount, but relations have calmed down more recently. If I’m being honest, I was nervous to go, but it was spectacular, and we felt very safe. Judaism, Christianity, and Islam all believe this site is extremely holy and have their own canonical stories of what happened here. It’s like being in the Marvel universe, where there are many separate stories that share a world and interact.

Non-Muslims are only allowed at the Temple Mount during certain hours, must enter through a specific gate, and may not go inside Dome of the Rock or Al Aqsa. During Jewish holidays and when tensions run high, non-Muslims are barred from the Temple Mount altogether. In high season, the line to enter can be 1.5h+, but we only waited 20 min. The security screening was easy. Sometimes we’re told a passport is required for entry, but it wasn’t the day we went.

At the Temple Mount, extra clothing was provided for those deemed dressed immodestly. I was asked to wear a skirt or my scarf around my legs, since my boyfriend-cut jeans were deemed too tight. Minor eye roll aside, the experience was smooth. I am glad we visited in winter—I’d have been more annoyed at the dress code in 90 degree heat!

The plaza was quite quiet and peaceful (literally & figuratively). It was so exciting to finally see the famous Dome of the Rock up close! The tiled walls are gorgeous and the gold dome is beyond impressive in person. We also really enjoyed walking around the perimeter of the plaza, where there are olive trees and views of the Mount of Olives, Mary Magdalene’s church (gold onion photo), and Gethsemine. We also think we found Solomon’s Throne (last photo). It felt like we pretty much had the place to ourselves—another reason to visit in the winter (but significantly before or after Christmas).

Some Temple Mount trivia and observations

1. It turns out the Rabbinical Authorities actually believe Jews should not visit the Temple Mount at all ... but not for the reasons you might think. Jews are not supposed to step on the corner stone of the original temple because it’s sacred. But since no one knows exactly where that was, the thinking is that it’s best to avoid the possibility of stepping on it by staying away entirely. 🤷🏻‍♀️ There is actually a sign stating the rabbinical authority’s position at the entrance to the Temple Mount.

2. Clearly, some religious Jews do visit the Temple Mount anyway. All non-Muslim prayer is prohibited on the Temple Mount to prevent tension. But as we walked up the ramp to the mount (after security but before the official entrance), a group of Orthodox Jews right in front of us started loudly singing Jewish prayers. I felt extremely uncomfortable & we hung back from them to avoid guilt by association. They were admonished by Israeli police at the entrance to the Temple Mount, but the various guards clearly had different opinions on the severity of this infraction. Ultimately, they were allowed in, and they didn’t do anything disrespectful on the Temple Mount itself. However, it did underscore how real the conflict around these holy sites is for the deeply religious.

3. The most absurd thing we saw on the Temple Mount itself was a couple doing a highly self-indulgent photoshoot. Their billowy full-coverage couture met the modesty standards, but it felt very wrong in a place that’s not just religious but that has been the site of so much conflict. The security guards stared at them the whole time and were clearly both horrified & amused—I bet they couldn’t wait to tell them their hour was up.

4. The vast majority of people were super respectful of where they were. No one complained about the additional clothing, made excessive noise, or prayed inappropriately at the actual site. This experience was good reminder of how conflicts that arise are so often a case of a bad apple spoiling it for the bunch.